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Backing coming off Kompressor pads after 1st use
Old 02-28-2016, 10:23 PM   #1
crackedconch
 
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Default Backing coming off Kompressor pads after 1st use

Hey Guys -

I bought a couple of your purple Kompressor foam pads and after the first use, the white backing came loose from the pad as I was taking it off the Flex 3401. I thought it was a fluke and pitched it. It's been a while and today was my next boat detail day. I used the second Kompressor pad and when I was done, same thing - the pad came off and the white backing stayed on the Flex backing plate.

I was using the Marine 31 All in One polish and wax. I like how these pads are tough enough to remove light oxidation but are not as aggressive as wool.

Am I doing something wrong? Can it be washed and glued back on? Or...are they really just designed for single use?

Thanks,
-Bryan
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Old 03-02-2016, 12:16 AM   #2
Mike Phillips
 
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Default Re: Backing coming off Kompressor pads after 1st use

Hi Bryan,

They are not single use pads but it sounds like they are failing and probably from heavy preassure over time which creates heat and this leads to failure.

In my new how to book I recommed getting a WOOL cutting pad for what you're trying to do as they will cut faster and cut COOLER.

Also, get a copy of my new book, I cover pretty much everything and cover it in detail.


How To Detail Boats With Marine 31 by Mike Phillips







It's no coincidence that car guys also tend to be boat guys!

The two hobbies go together well when it comes to having fun and also when it comes to detailing and maintaining both cars and boats.

This how to book contains more in-depth information on boat detailing than any other book ever written on this topic. This is without a doubt the most complete and information rich how-to book I've ever written. (I have 5 paperback how-to books in print and 3 ebooks available).

This paperback book on how to detail boats goes over every surface of a boat both inside and out. It also covers every conceivable condition a boat is in with specific steps for correction.

It covers all these tools,

Flex 3401
Flex PE14
RUPES BigFoot 21
RUPES BigFoot Duetto
RUPES TA50
Cyclo polisher
Porter Cable 7424XP
DeWALT 849X
Makita 9237CX2
Griot's Garage 6" DA Polisher
3M Air DA Sander

Working by hand
I know most people start out working by hand so I included hand techniques for every topic.


Plus all the pads, brushes and sanding discs to use with the above tool.

Instead of typing out all the topics covered in this book I've simply taken pictures of the index which shows you just how in-depth this how to book truly is...


















Many of the topics covered also apply to car detailing so it's a valuable resource even if you don't yet own a boat.

If you're familiar with my writing style in the forum world you'll find the same style of writing in all my how-to books. That is I explain in simple terms how to perform a process plus why you're performing it and it's a combination of including both types of information that helps you to do the best work possible.


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Old 03-11-2016, 02:21 AM   #3
crackedconch
 
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Default Re: Backing coming off Kompressor pads after 1st use

Thanks Mike!

When I took your boat detailing class last year the book was still a work in progress. Glad to hear you got it published!! I'll be sure to get a copy with my next order!!

However, so I can order the pads and the book at the same time, can you tell me which wool pads you recommend? I notice you have the new Marine 31 pads by Buff & Shine in 100% twisted Wool, 50/50 wool/acrylic, and electrified sheepskin.

I'm thinking with the lightly oxidized gel coat I might be able to start with the 50/50 and finish with the electrified sheepskin. Also, Captains One Step Compound Polish with the 50/50 and All in One Polish and Wax with the Sheepskin? Good plan???

I bought the Captain's Boat Coating so my ultimate goal is to get the surface "right" before I apply the coating.

Thanks again,
-Bryan
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Old 03-14-2016, 09:45 AM   #4
Mike Phillips
 
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Default Re: Backing coming off Kompressor pads after 1st use

Quote:
Originally Posted by crackedconch View Post

I'm thinking with the lightly oxidized gel coat I might be able to start with the 50/50 and finish with the electrified sheepskin.

Also, Captains One Step Compound Polish with the 50/50 and All in One Polish and Wax with the Sheepskin? Good plan???

Hi Bryan,

You can easily get all the oxidation removal done using the electrified 7.5" buffing pad.


Here's something I wrote for the PE14 rotary buffer but the pad works great with any rotary buffer and it also works GREAT with the Flex 3401.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Phillips


Large Wool Cutting Pad

Technically the pad I'm recommending is a "finishing" pad not a "cutting" pad but here's the deal.

First - Fiber pad cut more aggressively than foam pads because each of the individual fibers that make up a wool pad are a type of abrasive in and of themselves and each fiber can and will cut the paint. So the fiber itself is a type of abrasive and this is why guys that finish out with only wool pads on rotary buffers leave holograms in their customer's paint.


Second - The difference between a wool cutting pad and a wool finishing pad is the degree of aggressiveness. In the BIG PICTURE when comparing wool pads to foam pads and in the context of using these pads on a rotary buffer, either type cutting or finishing is going to do a GREAT job of abrading or cutting the surface compared to any foam pad. This is key to doing the correction step in the fastest and most effective way.

If you work in a body shop and have to cut new paint jobs all day long every day then by all means get a wool cutting pad.

If you're detailing cars and thus not normally wetsanding the paint first, then simply by using a wool finishing pad for any heavy or major correction job, this will put you miles ahead time-wise versus using a foam cutting pad.

Plus wool pads cut cooler than foam cutting pads and this is important because it's not good to heat up clearcoat paints. Even though you might read someone on another forum say something like,

You need to heat the clearcoat up in order break down the abrasives

or

You need to heat the clearcoat up in order to re-flow the paint


Both of these statements and practices are wrong and this is called destructive paint polishing.

(See page 124 of The Complete Guide to a Show Car Finish)


So if you're mostly doing reconditioning work aka detailing cars, then you'll do fine and be safer plus be able to do any follow up polishing steps faster by sticking with the pad I recommend below instead of a full-on, hardcore wool cutting pad.


Flex recommends using 8" wool pads and smaller with the Flex PE14 so the below wool pad is perfect at 7.5" and is called the Lake Country 7.5" Electrified Sheepskin Final Polishing Pad.


Electrified?
The word electrified means Lake Country has taken the extra step to electrify the wool which removes the natural sharp barbs found in wool creating a pad that cuts fast but finishes with less scouring of the paint. This is a real benefit when buffing thin, scratch-sensitive clearcoat finishes.

Note: I see a few guys come to this forum and recommend using a brand of black wool pads so just to note, these pads have the barbs.


Link to 7.5" Electrified Wool Finishing Pad




Quote:
Originally Posted by crackedconch View Post


I bought the Captain's Boat Coating so my ultimate goal is to get the surface "right" before I apply the coating.

Thanks again,
-Bryan

Definitely get the surface perfect before applying the coating.


After doing any correction work with the wool pad I'd still re-buff using foam for a more perfect finish. Inspect after the wool to see if you need to, could be you'll finish out perfect with just the wool and NOT having to rebuff using foam would save you a step, a lot of work and time.


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