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Test Spot
Old 06-12-2014, 09:02 AM   #1
kinder car care
 
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Default Test Spot

Doing a Test Spot on the back of the houseboat, it's shady out and I'm trying to get the most gloss possible and looking straight at it does no good but from a angle or looking straight down is helping.

So here's what I'm working with and getting from my process. Using a Harbor Freight Roatry right now until I can get the Flex PE14-2 rotary but it seams to be doing pretty good and held up well under the conditions of the aluminum polishing.

Here's what I'm working with.


And after first application of the heavy cut cleaner wax with the wool foam pad. On about 1500 rpm and with about 12 pound pressure, made 4 or 5 section passes.


And after the second application again with 3 or 4 sectaion passes. I'm not really seeing any improvement or at least I'm not satisfied,


With half tape line removed, I'm not impressed but I know it's got to be me and my technique. After I did this whole section I went back over the entire section again after cleaning my wool foam pad in the pad washer and repeated but man it's taking way to long for no more the a 3 foot wide by 4 foot long section. Hopefully my wool pads will get here today because I'm not liking the wool foam pads to good.


Straight up close pic.


And pic of what I'm using.



I found that when I got down under my test spot looking up on my second application, you could tell I had been tilting my rotary on edge because it had a shine to it, so then I would have to go back over the all area again with the pad flat. Which do I do on the Gel Coat, Pad Flat or tilted on edge just a little?

Finally I had enough of trying to do a one step on this and got out my marine 31 compound and started a 2 step with better results, will have pics late this week, but is this gel coat really bad or is it my technique and trying to make the jump from working on paint all these years to gel coat?
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Old 06-12-2014, 09:38 AM   #2
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Default Re: Test Spot

2 things for sure,

1. You're learning.

2. You are improving the condition of the gel-coat


When your wool pads get here you should see better results faster.


Cutting the oxidized gel-coat off a boat is not an easy task. Last summer when we buffed out one of our project boats most of the guys were brand new to using a rotary buffer and brand new to buffing out a gel-coat boat.

While everyone did a good job I ended up going over a few places because in good light you could see the oxidation was still present.

The difference between how I buffed and how the new guys buffed was in the pressure applied to the hull with the buffer while buffing.


Here's the project,

24' Pro-Line Boat - Extreme Marine Makeover - Oxidation Removal


Here's one of the new guys running a rotary buffer with an 11" wool cutting pad. See how he's standing? See how his right arm is in a dropped position mostly just holding the buffer up?






Now look how I'm standing and holding the rotary buffer....


This is how you lean into the buffer....




DeWALT 849X sans handle and grabbing the rubber overmold on the head of the unit and the pushing down hard...




I'm LEANING into the buffer. Look at my left arm it's not dropped down it's pushing in towards the hull. I'm pushing on the rotary buffer with some hard pressure. This is what I call chopping as I'm chopping off gel-coat.

Buffing out oxidized boat is hard work. I tell guys this all the time, in fact I posted this to a rotary buffer thread just this morning on AGO

My post on how to use the rotary buffer

Note the bold read list item...
  • Teach yourself the 10 @ 10 Technique for picking up a bead of product. If you haven't read my article on this Google it and add my name.
  • Get a nylon brush for cleaning foam pads and a steel spur for cleaning wool pads
  • You don't have to buff at high speeds, modern compounds are designed to work at low speeds.
  • You don't need heat to break down abrasives, that's a urban legend that never dies.
  • You can finish out hologram free but the only way to truly know is to chemically strip the paint and then inspect under full overhead bright sunlight.
  • Use flexible backing plates, the compress to provide extra cushion when buffing curved panels.
  • Throw the D-handle away and place your hand directly onto the rubber overmold or use the stick handle.
  • Join a gym and work out, using a rotary buffer will tax your arms, shoulders, back, legs more than any other tool especially with large pads and long projects.
  • Hold the buffer close to you when buffing to give you leverage over the tool, don't hold it loosey-goosey as some say.
  • Smaller pads are easier to control than larger pads. Thicker pads on a rotary buffer are better than thinner pads.


It takes practice to get good with a rotary buffer, like Ringo Star sings....

It don't come easy...



You can do it!


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Old 06-17-2014, 04:28 PM   #3
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Default Re: Test Spot

Most excellent description/illustration of proper technique via photo's.
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Old 06-20-2014, 03:58 PM   #4
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Default Re: Test Spot

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hoytman View Post
Most excellent description/illustration of proper technique via photo's.

Thanks Bill....

Sometimes a picture tells a thousand words...



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